Dipstick!

Since my LS7 has been converted to a wet sump system, I require a dipstick.  The engine was built using a batwing sump, and the block had been pre-drilled for the dipstick tube.

After searching for a while on the internet, I found the following information from here.

The Dipstick Tube part number should be 12562360 & the Dipstick 12562468.

However, these part numbers have been discontinued and after speaking with Pace Performance, I deduced that the part numbers that I require are:

Dipstick Tube:    12563817
Dipstick:             12574889

I ordered them from the US and promptly fitted them.  I'll have to see how it lines up once the rocker covers are in place, but I think it is not too far off.  I may get a new handle to get rid of the bright yellow one!

Also, once I drain the current level of oil out (added just for preservation), I will fill the sump with the required amount (6.5 qts.) and check the level on the dipstick to confirm this is indeed the correct one!

I have notched a little piece out of the heat shield, but I will remove approx 5mm more before adding some edging strip to clean up the install.

Starter Heat Shield

Since fitting the starter and the exhaust manifold, it was plain to see that the starter requirs a heat shield of some sorts.  There is only 17mm of clearance between the two.

I made a cardboard template out of a Shreddies box and then fabricated a heat shield out of 2 pieces of perforated stainless steel sheet sandwiching some fibreglass tape.  This will hopefully help the starter from getting too hot.

I have bought a dipstick so I will have to cut out a section to allow clearance once I fit it.

 

Exhaust Dry Fit

Apologies for not posting sooner, things have been busy with outside work and I haven't had much time in the garage.

I dry assembled the exhaust to see how it fits and also to mark where the central mounting bobbin requires to be drilled to the gearbox mount.  I pushed all the components together and it seems to fit!  I marked the bobbin and drilled the mount in situ.  I may have to rotate the cats slightly to make a bit more clearance from the chassis.  I will do this just before applying sealer and the stainless clamps.  I also need to drill the rear rubber mount to fix to the chassis.

Exhaust Preparation

To be able to fit the underslung exhausts I had two choices due to the fact that the chassis is sitting on tressels since there is no way of mounting the exhaust.

I could put wheels on and lower the chassis to the ground, however this would limit the space underneath to work with the exhaust.

I opted for placing blocks under the chassis, raising it up by 100mm, but leaving a gap for the exhaust to pass through.  I cut up some wood and held the blocks on the tressel using two pieces of 3/4" plywood and multiple screws.  It is still solid to work on, only a little bit higher.

Perhaps if building another, the steel tressels could be designed to incorporate this gap to allow the exhausts to pass through.

I will dry fit the exhaust system to ensure it all works before sealing each joint and fitting the clamps.

Engine Wiring Loom

I plugged in the engine wiring loom to see how it all ran and connected.  I now have to figure out what extra sensors I require to be able to complete.

These are:

Oil Pressure Sensor
Oil Temperature Sensor
Water Temperature Sensor
Oxygen Sensors

I will have to find out where to source these from and what the required ranges are.

I also plan to run a wire to the reverse lockout solenoid up to the dashboard, so I can install the required circuitry to operate it.  Reverse is located next to 5th gear, and so this solenoid prevents you from inadvertently selecting reverse when you are moving above 5mph.

Transmission Tunnel Cover

I used a piece of card to work out exactly where to put the cut out in the transmission tunnel cover for the gear lever.  I used a 60mm hole saw for the hole (Ends up being around 62mm once drilled).  This is large enough to prevent the lever from touching the cover when in any gear while stationary, and hopefully even when driving!  I will bolt the cover in place once I have finished modifying the handbrake cable.  The cable needs to be shortened and will be easier to work with without the cover being bolted in.

Final Gearbox Cover

I have made and fitted the final gearbox cover using perforated sheet.  I don't think there are any more holes that require covering!