Gearbox Oil

Before fitting the body, I thought it would be a good idea to fill up the gearbox with oil.  I bought some Dexron III rated oil as stated on the gearbox.

It took 3.5 litres to fill up to the plug level.

I used a Sealey transmission oil filling system which worked really well and didn't create a mess.

Another job done!

Fuel Rail Hose Supports

Since the IVA requires all hoses or wires to have fixings at a minimum of 300mm, I had to create some more mounts for the hydraulic clutch hoses & fuel hoses, especially around the fuel rails.

I fabricated some twisted stainless brackets to fit underneath the transmission tunnel, and some small brackets to fix the fuel hose to the fuel rails.  I drilled and tapped holes for M5 button head set screws and used stainless P-Clips.

I cable tied some of the gearbox wiring to the fuel hose supports since I thought this would be adequate.

I then re-affixed the transmission tunnel cover once this was all done.

Body On!!!!! (and off again)

Since I had a visit from my cousin and his sons, I decided it would be a good idea to try the bodyshell on the chassis so I could identify where the engine wiring loom would go through the bulkhead, and where the fuel hoses would have clearance going into the boot.

I almost forgot to drill a clearance hole for the gear lever, but my cousin Michael spotted it prior to the lift!  After a quick measure (and double check) I drilled a 40mm hole.  I will open this out once the exact position is known.

After a quick release of the radiator to give plenty of clearance, we managed to lift the shell off the wooden frame and lower it onto the chassis.  The bodyshell was a tight fit on the rear lower body mounts.  The shell did go down with a bit of persuasion, but I will chamfer the edges of the mounts and thin them a bit to allow easier fitment the next time.

I admired it for a while, trying to ignore the wheels, and then I marked the fuel pressure regulator position and the rear chassis brace for the wiring loom and fuel hoses respectively.

Once this was done, we then lifted the bodyshell off again....

I now have to concentrate on the bodyshell to enable me to finally fit it.  Watch this space!

Transmission Tunnel Cover

I used a piece of card to work out exactly where to put the cut out in the transmission tunnel cover for the gear lever.  I used a 60mm hole saw for the hole (Ends up being around 62mm once drilled).  This is large enough to prevent the lever from touching the cover when in any gear while stationary, and hopefully even when driving!  I will bolt the cover in place once I have finished modifying the handbrake cable.  The cable needs to be shortened and will be easier to work with without the cover being bolted in.

Final Gearbox Cover

I have made and fitted the final gearbox cover using perforated sheet.  I don't think there are any more holes that require covering!

Starter Fitted

I bought a starter from GD since I didn't get one with my engine.  It was a very straight forward fit (while the exhaust is off) but it leaves an uncovered part leading to the flywheel.  I had to create another cover to ensure no debris can enter the bellhousing.  I used the same perforated sheet as the other covers I have made.  Only one more hole to cover which I will create over the next few days hopefully.

Gearbox Plugs & Covers

I remade one of the covers using more perforated sheet to provide some ventilation.  I still have a cover to make on the N/S of the gearbox, and one around the starter motor.  I have received the starter, so I'll bolt it in place and make a cover to suit.

I bought a mechanical speedo plug from Roadcraft UK, removed the shipping bung and fitted the new plug using a M6 x 16mm set screw.

Another Flywheel Cover

When I told Andy at GD that I was making covers for the flywheel / gearbox, he said to me "Make sure you leave plenty of ventilation".

If you refer back to my previous post regarding the flywheel cover, I made an aluminium cover.

Rather than drill holes in the aluminium cover, I used it as a template to make one from perforated sheet instead.

Just a couple more to do!

Gearbox Connectors

I spent a bit of time trying to find the correct connectors for the Tremec T56 Magnum gearbox.  I have managed to find them and I have detailed them below.

For the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS): Dorman 645-213.  This comes complete as a pigtail connector and will require soldering in place.  I bought mine through RockAuto from here, but there are other suppliers available.

For the Reverse Light Switch:  Delphi 12015792.  I bought mine through SimtekUK from here

For the Reverse Lockout Solenoid:  Delphi 12052646.  I bought mine through SimtekUK.  They don't list it on their website yet, but if you contact them they will supply.

Flywheel Cover

I made an aluminium cover for the N/S of the engine / gearbox to cover the flywheel.  Just used a folded piece of aluminium and cut / filed it to shape.  It is fastened to the block using a M6 set screw and spring washer / washer.

Gearbox Bellhousing Openings

The bellhousing between the engine and gearbox has a few openings in it.  This must be a somewhat universal bellhousing, since there are openings for a mechanical clutch fork on both sides.  I can also see the flywheel on the N/S.  I am waiting for a starter to come, so I am not sure if there is a gap on the O/S.  Covers need to be put in place to prevent stones and debris coming in contact with the flywheel and clutch.

I am going to use aluminium to make up covers.  I have made up one so far, and have fixed it to the gearbox by drilling and tapping out for M4 button head screws.  I used a hoover to keep down on swarf.  I have started with the easy one, and the others will require a little more sculpting..

Engine / gearbox is in!

For trying to decide how my fuel pipes would run, I thought it would be a good idea to fit the engine and gearbox to see what space there is for the pipes.

My initial idea is that I would put the assembly in and then mark up where I need to drill for the mounts, then take the assembly out again.

My dad came over for a visit and he helped me get the engine assembly in.  Not too much work using the engine crane.

Once the assembly was in, it looked like I could access the mounting holes without much problem, so I think I will leave the engine in!

The only draw back was that because I thought I was going to remove the assembly again, I didn't put in the propshaft.  This cannot go in if the diff and engine/gearbox are in!  I then thought it was much easier to lower the diff, install the propshaft, and raise the diff again.  That is what I did.

I need to finally bolt up the engine mounts, propshaft and diff.

Engine & Gearbox Meet

This morning I managed to get the gearbox fully bolted up the the engine.  It took a bit of wiggling, but it went together without much effort.

The bolts were torqued up to 35 ft lbs.

I now need to modify the gearbox mount a bit since the holes don't quite line up with it and the chassis....

Hopefully not be too long before the engine and gearbox can go in!

Clutch Slave Cylinder & Gearbox

I finished machining the remote bleed fitting and hydraulic supply fitting, and they have now been welded.  I have filed the hexagon faces back on and have fitted them into the slave cylinder.

I have also fitted the stainless braided hoses that go up to the chassis.  With the machined fittings, I didn't have to modify the gearbox in any way.

Once this was done, I proceeded to mate the engine and gearbox.  This is a bit tricky on your own, but it is nearly together now.  I will get the bolts in to help pull them together.

Engine / Gearbox

Out of interest I weighed the engine using a borrowed load cell coupled up to my engine crane.

The engine isn't complete, but I'll try to explain what it has on it.....

The engine is dry and has fitted to it the flywheel, twin plate clutch, coil packs, spark plugs.  There is no starter or alternator included in the weight.  That will need to be added along with the oil.

With all that, the weight came to 186kg.  Not too bad I think.

I also weighed the gearbox.  The T56 Magnum weighs 62kg.  This is including the bellhousing, but no clutch slave cylinder (which isn't heavy).

Gearbox Bellhousing

I fitted the bellhousing to the gearbox.  I used the bolt kit that came with it from RoadcraftUK.  Threadlock were used on the bolts and these were torqued up to 38 ft lbs.  You can only use 7 out of the 8 since one of the holes don't go anywhere!