Engine Bay Battery Connectors

I always had an idea of using an Anderson connector inside the engine bay to allow access to the battery for jump starting / charging purposes.

After playing around with the connectors, and the limited space around where I was hoping to install it, I thought I would abandon that idea since I felt that my knuckles would probably get badly damaged. And also if I didn't have an Anderson connector adaptor with me, somebody with standard jump leads wouldn't be able to help.

I bought some 250A heavy duty remote battery charging posts.  For the positive, I tucked the connector up and under as far as I could to keep accessible, above the cooling water pipes and inside the battery compartment.  A cable was then run to the battery terminal.

For the negative side, I cut down the post, turned it down in the lathe, drilled a hole through the centre and bolted it to the chassis using a coutersunk set screw.  This bolts onto the chassis where the main negative battery cable connects to the chassis.

Altogether a more funtional use of connection in case it is ever needed.

Power Steering

It seems like I haven't had much time in the garage over the last few months, what with school holidays, trying to be out and about while the weather is still good and other activities.  I have however managed some time so will try and provide an update as to what I have done.

I started working on the power steering column again.  I thought I'd be best to get the polished stainless cover to fit along with the stainless steel stalks.

The Corsa steering column took a bit to modify to allow the GD supplied stainless cover to fit.  Some of the plastic had to be cut off - this was done using a multi tool.  I trimmed just enough so that the cover would fit.  Interestingly, the bolt holes line up perfectly, which must be the same as the GD supplied Vectra column.

Since I am not using a key, I removed the ignition barrel, and also the steering lock mechanism.  I am using the CANEMS immobiliser and also a Battery Brain which has a battery cut off controlled with a remote.  I think that this covers the requirements of the IVA for disabling the car so I don't need the steering lock....

Since my Corsa column is adjustable, I had to trim the adjuster lever, and thread it to allow fitment of the GD supplied end.  This also meant that I had to modify the underside of the stainless cover to allow the lever to move.  The edges have been smoothed over with a file.  I also made an aluminium blank to cover the key hole in the aluminium cover, so it won't indent when covered with the leather.

I bought new indicator and wiper stalks for a Vectra B, since the Corsa ones are for a CANBUS system.  The Vectra B ones fit exactly into the Corsa column.  I cut the plastic stalks off, tapped out the holes to M6, and fitted the GD supplied stainless stalks.  I plan to use the wiring plug off the Vectra to plug into the new stalks, I just have to order new terminals to crimp onto the GD wiring.

When I had the steering column temporarily in the car, I marked and tack welded the Corsa universal joint to the GD supplied steering column assembly.  This has new been fully welded and tested to ensure that it won't fail during operation.

The next thing to do is to make the GD supplied aluminium steering wheel boss fit the Corsa column.  Typically, this is greatly different from the Vectra column.  The Corsa column has a bigger diameter spline, so the boss will require machining out, and new splines cut.  I will provide an update once this has been done.  I will be using the Corsa steering wheel for now.....

Throttle Pedal Wiring

Because the electronic throttle unit is on the opposite side of the bulkhead in the drivers footwell, I needed a way to get the cable and plug through without leaving a big hole.

I decided to design a piece that would allow this.  Basically I worked out what minimum size of hole I needed for the plug and then worked from there.  The cable itself, within the flexible conduit, could fit through a standard 20mm grommet.  This meant I could create a piece from aluminium to cover the hole up once the connector had passed through.  Again, I used Solidworks to design and a local company Ocean Kinetics to mill it for me.  I polished it on the polisher before passing the wire through it and fitting to the bulkhead with M5 button head set screws.  I had to dis-assemble the connector to get it through.

Car Electrics

I researched a bit on types of batteries since I wanted to get a battery as big and powerful as possible.  I decided to go for an Optima Red-Top battery which is a sealed AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) type.  This is designed as an ultimate starting battery which delivers "a strong burst of ignition power".  Measuring the battery meant that I cut a small bit out of the stainless battery tray to ensure it was going to fit.  I went for the RTU 4.2 version.  My plan is to use the front connections as a charging point linked to an Anderson connector in the engine bay.

I also have decided to fit a battery brain which cuts off the battery if you accidentally leave anything switched on.  This allows you still to be able to start the car once you switch it back on again.  It can also be used as an anti-theft device since it comes with coded remotes to switch it on and off.

I mounted this in the front passenger wheel well and made off the ends of all the cables once cut to length.  The photos don't show it, but I have fitted the battery clamp and connected the main wire to the starter too.

Wiring - Continued

Since trial fitting the cross brace, and running the wires for the power steering, I managed to position the rear wiring loom and fix it into place.

I also had to run both fuel pump wires along side which makes it a little bulkier.  I fixed the loom up under the passenger footwell using a P-Clip and then proceeded to duct tape the rest of the cable in place as it runs to the boot area.  This now enables me to wire the rear lights and properly dress in the wires.

I also wired in some of my additional wires into a new 9 way round plug, and I had to colour code them to ensure they don't get mixed up.

Bodywork

I found some time in the garage so I managed to fix the boot handle and number plate light onto the boot lid.  This involved measuring lots of times and lining the parts up prior to drilling.  GD had already pre-installed a wire in between the boot lid skins and I managed to cut a hole behind the number plate light to enable fishing out the wire.  I will fabricate a bracket to hold the number plate later.

I also drilled out the hole to accept the Aston Martin style fuel filler.  I will properly fit it in the coming months.

Power Steering - Continued

Mark T kindly provided me with the bracing for the Corsa power steering column.  He had already Engineered one for his car which can be seen on his blog.

I fitted the bracing to the car, and trial fitted the column.  This then identified where the ECU could and couldn't go.  Trying to avoid having to lengthen the sensor wires, and keep the ECU above the dash tray, I opted to mount the ECU to the motor itself.  This involved cutting the mounting lugs off the ECU and opening out the radius to keep it closer to the motor.

I then used a length of stainless to form a clamp that bolts to the ECU mount.  I place a piece of rubber under the mount which holds the ECU very tightly.

Once I trial fitted the column and everything fitted, I ran the wires for the following:

1mm² wire from the ECU round plug for the speed control from the CANEMS ecu
1mm² wire from the fuse box (5A) to supply the ECU
1mm² wire from dashboard multiplug E for RPM signal
6mm² wire from new 50A fuse
6mm² wire from -ve battery connection

I cut them to length, then crimped on new connectors bought from SimtekUK.

I have since removed the column and new bracing, and it is now being hot metal sprayed and painted prior to final fitting.

I had to re-wire inside the 55-pin connector under the guidance of Dave from CANEMS to enable the control of the Power Steering.  

Firstly, I had to move the CAM sensor wire from pin 8 to pin 39.  

Then the VSS from the gearbox was connected into pins 8 & 9 (Polarity doesn’t matter and preferably shielded cable to be used – shield connected to pin 19).  VSS wires were teed-off to the speedometer on the dash.  

I then had to install a 470 Ohm pullup resistor across pins 37 & 40 which allows the ECU to create a square wave required for the Corsa Unit.  

The ECU provides the Speed output to the EPAS from Pin 40 (to Blue/Red Wire), and the RPM signal from Pin 6 (to Green Wire).  

Best double check with Dave at CANEMS to see how his supplied harness is now wired and how the ECU is programmed in case mine is a one off….  I wouldn’t want you to fry your ECU!

Side Repeaters

I finally fitted the side repeaters by drilling a 20mm hole.  I used the front line of the side vents to project a line up to the front edge of the repeater and 15mm up for the bottom edge.  These were pushed in through the hole and wired up with a 2-way superseal connector.  I will remove them and seal them with some sealant for a permanent fix.

Wiring, Wiring, and more Wiring

I started to put some of the wiring together for the body.  GD provided the harness for the body in two parts - front and rear.  I have thought long and hard about extra wires to put in, how to run the loom and where it can all fit.

I started by laying it all out and using the provided wiring diagrams and notes, tried to understand where it all goes and what additional items I would like.  In addition to the already added to engine loom (here), The list seems endless...............

• The Aeromotive fuel pumps came with their own wiring looms which contains a 50A fuse and a relay along with all the supply / feed and trigger cabling.  These just needed a mounting location and the wires trimmed to length.

• The Innovate Motorsports Wideband Lambda sensors require some additional fuses (5A per controller) and a relay(s) along with wiring.

• Since the GD provided heater fan comes with 3 speeds, I wanted to have that availability so needed to add an extra wire.

• The GD supplied fuse box comes as an 8-way unit which is already used up.  I bought a 16-way unit so all the fuses will need transferred to the new box and additional fuse wiring added.

• In the GD build notes, it mentions about removing the green wire from the washer pump plug and replacing with an earth & the horn relay requires the purple wire removing and replacing with an earth on pin 85. 

• I prefer a minimalistic look in the engine bay, so have decided to run all the engine loom plugs & earth in through the bulkhead along with the ECU wires / connector which will run behind the fuel pressure regulator.  Wires need extending to permit plugs to enter cockpit from engine bay, and the mating plugs re-routing back into passenger footwell.

• Original holes for Engine loom connectors / fuse box requires filling and gel coat applied prior to sanding and polishing.

• Additional ignition & permanent 12V supply wires run to the additional fuse box for future connections.

• Earth & supply wires run from new relay for lambda sensors to fuse box and to controllers.

• Additional 50A fuse supply inside cockpit - just one single 25mm² 12V hi-flex cable from the battery along with earth connection - require to solder all the 1mm² cores into a 25mm² through crimp and crimped on a 25mm² hi-flex cable to go to the battery.

• Additional earth bar located inside the cockpit for future earth connections fed with 25mm² hi-flex cable.

• Superseal connectors for all connections and convoluted conduit for protecting the cabling under the wings.

• Additional wires for Coolant level switch which is located in the radiator feed hose, and for the heater control valve.

• Spare wires for a switch mounted to the clutch pedal - to be wired up to the starting circuit so the clutch pedal has to be depressed to start.

• The GD fuel pump wire will not be used, so will be a spare going to the rear of the car.  The CANEMS ECU will trigger the Aeromotive pumps - 1 master pump and a switch will control the 2nd pump.

• 6mm² wires need to be installed for the Corsa Power Steering column from the 2nd 50A fuse.  VSS signals and others require to be run up to the power steering ECU.

The amount of times I have had the loom in, out, taped up, tape off, tape on, in, out is ridiculous!  It isn't far away now, so I will post what I have done so far.  I am waiting on some more convoluted conduit for the front indicators to finish them off.

Original GD Relay panel (7of)

Slot cut above heater to allow cabling to pass through

Wiring loom pulled in temporarily to check lengths prior to fitting superseal connectors

Loom near bonnet hinge

All front wiring passes through the bulkhead outside of the engine bay

Stainless battery tray supplied by GD - modified to allow fitment of slightly longer battery......

Relay holders and fuel pump relays / fuses mounted

Original 8-Way GD supplied fuse box

Additional relay (Twin) added for Innovate Lambda sensors

Additional 50A fuse holder added (with aluminium mount)

Earth bar mounted

Superseal connectors used and convoluted conduit used for protection

Wiring for O/S repeater