IVA Test!

After getting my old faithful Land Rover Discovery serviced, and my Ifor Williams Transporta trailer brakes checked I was ready for the long journey.  My friend Mervyn agreed to come with me for moral support, and also to help in case we broke down!

My plan was to take the GD down to Andy at the Grantham headquarters for a sense check, then off to Derby for the IVA.  With the overnight ferries being a bit tricky to get booked during holiday season, we managed to get some space which sort of worked.

Arriving in Aberdeen at 7am, we had a 422 mile trip to Grantham.  We stopped twice for fuel and made it to GD Cars at approx 4pm.  Andy had a quick look over my car and we made a list of things for us to to confirm on the Monday.

Checking the brake bias, and adjusting the handbrake

IVA Compliant Fog Light Fitted

IVA Compliant Head Rest In-Fills Fitted

Speedo re-calibrated to 33000 as per Andy's Spreadsheet calculation

Adjusting the steering to try to get her to self centre while driving in a circle

Lowering the fuelling at idle to ensure she was within emission limits - she was!

Arrived at Derby on the 30th July

Nervously waiting to enter the test bay

Being checked over

IVA Success!  A massive thanks to Andy!

In the trailer ready for the long journey home

Celebratory Steak!

Time to Reflect

For the IVA rear relfectors are required.  After looking at various people's versions, I thought for now I would make a simple bracket that bolts on under the brake light.

I created a pattern on a piece of card, and then once happy cut it out from a sheet of Stainless Steel.  The holes were bored, and everything was rounded off and polished with the polisher.

I then moved onto getting the ID plate fixed to the bulkhead.  I have a fairly empty bulkhead, so placed it nearer to the passenger side.

A front number plate blank was made from a piece of plywood just to mimic where the number plate will finally fit.  This is currntly screwed onto the bar using P-Clips. Not sure how I'm going to fit the plastic number plate - if you have any ideas please let me know.

I also changed the engine oil - had a petrol smell so I will have to check after getting the engine setup on the dyno.  Since my LS7 has a batwing sump from an LS2, it isn't 100% straight forward.  The oil spec is easy enough, it needs to be GM4718M 5W30.  I used Comma Syner-X Fully Synthetic.

The oil filter needs to be the one from the LS2 which is an AC Delco PF46 (Or equivalent - In my case Mahle OC 999).  

The engine takes 6 litres of oil.  

Dashboard Switches

I have been trying to think of how I would like my dashboard to look.  I prefer a minimilistic look, but also keen on the period feel of the car.

I was going to use the Lucas toggle switches, one for lights, one for the rear fog and then a rotary one for the heater blower.  I did toy on the idea of having a swith that I could use to run my fuel pumps to be able to prime the system.

I felt that there were too many switches going to be present so I scoured the internet for inspiration.  

I really like the look of the original rotary knobs in the AC Cobra and I found a place on eBay that sold one for lights and one for the fan.  I had a rotary fan swith so the first job was to get the new knob to fit the switch.  The knob is designed to fit 1/4" hex shafts, but the 3 speed fan switch I have is round with a flat cut in it.  The rubberised knob that came with the switch has a steel insert in it.  I removed this and proceeded to get it to fit in the new knob.

Using the Proxxon, I machined out the internal hex of the knob until the steel insert fitted neatly.  I used some araldite to help bond the insert in.

For the light switch, I had one rotary switch which has 2 positions, side lights and main beam.  The full beam is controlled from the stalks.  That means I will still need another switch for the fog light.

I scoured the internet to see if I could find a switch that was easily modifiable which had the fog light function built in.  I came across a Mercedes light switch (MER-LSWT-004) which has the very functionality I need and looked like it could be modified for my needs.

I set to and dismantled the unit to figure out what I needed.  This unit has a LED in the centre of the shaft, so that was the first thing to be removed.  Looking at the shaft, I thought it easier if I took the shaft from the other switch I had (brass), machined the correct size of hex on it and fit it to the new knob.  I then modified the aluminium piece of the Mercedes light switch to fit the newly machined brass shaft.  I fixed it in using 2x roll pins.

Once that was done, the switch felt a little stiff to operate (new knob is relatively small), so I machined out some of the Mercedes switch internals to soften the "clicks".  I machined a small piece of black nylon to fill in the gap of the shaft to the threaded boss.

The switch now worked very well, pulling the siwtch to get the rear fog light to come on.  Once you switch the headlights off, the switch automatically retracts causing the fog light to go off.  

Black Nylon Insert

The last thing to do now was to make mounting nuts which hold the switches onto the dashboard.  Both switches had horrid looking hexagonal nuts, and typically were a completely a different thread and size to the Lucas nuts.  So I had to make some.

I turned a piece of stainless steel and created 2x blank pieces.  I made them the same diamater so they would look the same, although different inner diameters.  I worked out that the thread of the fan switch was 7/16" x 28 and the light switch was 5/8" x 24.  I ordered taps from the internet and once arrived cut the threads in my newly created nuts.  I then cut grooves in the nuts and also created a tool for tightening / slackening them.  I polished the nuts with the polisher - All in all a good job.

This way I will only have 2 switches on the dashboard and will have a period look.

Rear Lights

I took time to fit the reverse light and fog light using the GD supplied stainless stand-offs.  At this moment in time, I am thinking to keep these on permanently since I know some people prefer them off.  I'll see what happens.

The body was drilled and long stainless set screws were used to mount the lights to the car.

I then finished off the wiring for all the rear lights using 5-way super seal connectors.

Side Repeaters

I finally fitted the side repeaters by drilling a 20mm hole.  I used the front line of the side vents to project a line up to the front edge of the repeater and 15mm up for the bottom edge.  These were pushed in through the hole and wired up with a 2-way superseal connector.  I will remove them and seal them with some sealant for a permanent fix.

Lights Fitted

I have finally gotten around to starting the build!

Since GD had already removed the flash lines and given the body a full compound and polish for me, I started by fitting the lights.

I double checked the dimensions of the headlight hole, and cut them out using my Proxxon tool with circle cutting attachment.  I then marked the holes for the adjustment screws and the mounting holes.  I have used A4 stainless pan head set screws to fit the headlight units and also the indicator lights.  I hope to use a lot of Stainless screws to prevent the dreaded rust.

I have also temporarily fitted the windscreen, but this needs a little more adjustment to get the centre bracket to fit.  I will have to get the wiper mechanism and demister escutcheons prior to final fitting and sealing.

I have also blocked up the bolt holes in the chassis using M8 & M6 bolts prior to the hot metal spraying.  I have been advised that this will be at least 2 weeks away due to the painters being on paternity leave!  All the best to them, and a couple of weeks won't make any difference to me.

Front Lights Fitted (P700 units used & clear indicators with orange lamps)

Rear lights fitted