Fuel System - Continued

I managed to find some time over the Christmas holidays to work in the garage.  I started by installing the new fuel rails that I bought from Aeromotive.  These were easy to install, just unbolted the old ones and using the same bolts, re-bolted down.

I then removed the copper / nickel fuel pipe that I previously installed, and ran in the new PTFE lined Stainless Steel Braid hose from Goodridge (811).  Speaking with the Aeromotive Technical Department, with the twin Stealth fuel pumps that I will be using, he recommended the use of -10 hose for the supply, and -8 for the return as per the schematic below:

I initially thought about running the -10 to the centre of the bulkhead and installing the Y-piece just on the chassis (as per the below photo), but after looking at regulator placement and the ECU harness, I have decided to place the Y-Piece under the tunnel panel and have the two separate -8 hoses running to either fuel rail.

I had to remove the bracket that I have installed, and I am going to make a bracket to hold the Y-piece further back (photos to follow).  The hoses to the rear were clipped to the original mounting points and I will sort out the final run once the body is trial fitted.

Heater Pipes - Continued

After making up wooden clamps and the use of duct tape, I made up stainless steel brackets for the heater pipes which go from the water pump at the driver's side across the car to the passenger's side.

I had a friend come over to TIG weld the brackets to the stainless pipes for me.  I then used some pickling paste to clean the weld after.

This then enabled me to finally bolt up the cross brace to the chassis.  I just have to install the 90 degree hoses and also the heater valve.

Fuel System

I finally decided on the fuel system for the car.  I decided on using Aeromotive equipment and to utilise their in-tank Phantom system.  The fuel tank will require some modification though....

I have bought Goodridge 811 PTFE lined Stainless steel braid with fittings to go along with it.

I will post updates once I start installing it all.

Jacking Point

As mentioned in a previous post (here), I made ready the chassis to accept a jacking point.  I tried my skills at 3D drawing using Solidworks and I managed to sketch what I wanted made including dimensions.  I then had a local company manufacture the unit from stainless steel.

It looks to be a good solid install and a good idea from Larry at Club GD.

Heater Pipes

I decided to install my own heater pipes as opposed to the ones supplied since I wanted to minimize rubber hoses and coupling joints.

I used some 18mm O/D stainless steel tube with a 90 degree bend turning towards the engine.  I have used some MDF with 18mm holes to line up the pipes to allow bracket design.  I will have to fabricate some stainless brackets to bolt to the cross brace under the windscreen washer tank and also to weld to the stainless pipes.

I will then attach this to the engine with 90 degree silicone elbows.

I spoke with a mechanic and asked him if he knew of any electronic heater controllers available.  He suggested a Ford Kuga valve.

I bought one and modified it to line up with the 18mm heater pipes.  I am waiting on silicone hose to connect up the heater controller.  The valve is controlled by using a variable voltage which I will add at some point controllable from the dashboard.  I will have to add some more wiring to the loom to connect this up.

Keep checking my blog for updates....

Note: The photo shows the cross brace / heater pipes assembly upside down.

Rollin', Rollin', Rollin'

Since the exhaust has been clamped up and the majority of the chassis work is now done, I decided to lower the chassis to the ground.

I used two engine cranes and two lifting strops to lift the chassis up enough to remove the trestles.  I then slowly lowered the chassis to the ground.  It rolls!

The only issue I have now is that the right rear tyre has a slow puncture.....  I'll have to see if I can find some other wheels / tyres.......

Sensored!

I decided to over complicate my Oil Pressure & Oil / Water Temperature sensors for the gauges.  I thought it would be a good idea to have the possibility of having the measurements input to a data logger of some kind.  I opted to buy sensors from GM that have dual circuitry.

They have 3 pins.  One pin is for the gauge, and the other two pins are for a 5V signal into an ECU / Data Logger.  I thought that this would future proof my install in case I wanted to add the data logging function.

After surfing the net for a while, I discovered that the correct part numbers were:

Oil / Water Temperature Sensor (3-Wire):  GM#  12551708
Oil Pressure (3-Wire):  GM#  12616646

These have the correct threads / sealing washer to be able to screw straight into the LS engine without any adapters.

I found out (I haven't verified this myself) that these sensors are of US 280F range, so I'm assuming a gauge won't be an issue.........

Also, I bought the 3-pin connectors from Simtek UK (CON-323):  Direct Link

I need to put some extra wiring into the loom to accommodate the sensors, and I will post when that is done.

I had to drill and tap the housing above the oil filter since this was blanked off.  This was done by removing it from the engine, drilling and tapping it to M12 x 1.5mm (Not a standard M12 thread).  This was fully cleaned from debris before bolting back together.

I hope they work.......