Steering Wheel Hub

The supplied steering wheel hub is designed to fit a Vauxhall Vectra column.  I have used a Vauxhall Corsa C column which has different splines.  The Corsa is a larger diameter so my hub needs to be drilled out and new splines added to match the column.

I wondered how best to try to create these splines, and I asked a friend who is an excellent machinist how to do it and he said he will sort it!

I had a spare column and steering wheel which I gave to him so he could modify the hub to fit.

He drilled out the hole to the correct size ready to be able to accept new splines.  He counted the number of splines required and marked his lathe so he could rotate the chuck to the exact rotational position.

Using a cutter, he used his cross slide to cut a new spline at each of his marks.  This was done until he was all the way around.

Once all machined (a recess had to be cut into the forward end), the hub fits perfectly onto the Corsa column.  It does use a thick washer under the bolt head to compensate for the different depth.

I then added in the indicator automatic cancelling by drilling 2x 6mm holes and bonding in some short stainless tubes in a similar position to the original Corsa wheel.  The steering wheel was then bolted on - threadlock added to the set screws.

Door Handle Protector

When I fitted the door handles, I was aware that they rubbed on the leather of the door card.  Eventually this will cause wear on the leather.  I was always on the lookout for something that could be used to protect this without looking unsightly.

I came across 2 small plastic tubes, one end with a smaller diameter hole.  They even have a recess for the leather.  Not sure what these are from, but they fit perfectly! 

This will prevent the leather from deteriorating by the door handle rubbing on it.

Radiator Stone Protector

I thought I had better create a protection screen for the aluminium radiator since it probably won't take too many stones to puncture it.  I removed the number plate bar for better access, and created a frame using 16mm aluminium angle.  Once the frame was created, a friend TIG welded the corners.

The frame is bolted up through the aluminium underbody protector into rivnuts, and also fitted to the top radiator mounting frame.  I fitted stainless mech which has 5mm openings, hopefully will stop most stones without affeting too much airflow.  The mesh was bonded into the frame using CT-1.

Wipers

I re-checked the wiper park before fitting the blades - the wipers wipe the wrong way!

For this you need to take out the wiper motor, and swap over the inside mechanism to the other side.  Not too difficult, just a bit of a pain.  While disconnecting the plug I thought it felt a little loose so I also closed the terminals a bit so they fully gripped their opposite in the wiper socket.

Once the mechanism was swapped, the wiper blades were installed.  Job done.

Door Finishers

I wasn't too happy with the fitment of the supplied door finishers.  The front ones appeared to hit the door hinge when the door closed, and the rear ones....  I don't really know how they were supposed to fit.

I used some light gauge galvinsed steel I had to create a template for new rear finishers.  This was then used to create pieces in stainless steel.  After a bit of fettling I polished the newly created finishers.  I filled the small gap underneath with some hard foam I had from a flight case.  These are bolted through into the wheel arch using the bolt bonded to the leather rear panel.

For the front finishers, I marked where the hinges moved and transferred this to the supplied finisher.  I cut out a section - this was to ensure no stress was passed onto the mounting screws.  These were then screwed in and the door is finished!

More Leather

After the carpets had all been glued, it was time to fasten in the leather panels.  I looked at various methods used by others, but I prefer a fully hidden approach.  

The tunnel cover is held pretty good under the power steering frame at the front.  In addition to this, I drilled additional holes in the stainless gear lever ring to allow more fixings to be used (6 instead of the standard 3).  I then recessed the carpet and fixed double sided velcro at the rear to help stop the panel from sliding side to side.

The stainless ring was set on top of the leather panel in position and the holes were marked through to the leather.  I used a hole punch to create a hole in the leather and I drilled out the fibreglass.  For the bodyshell, I drilled oversized holes and inserted rivnuts to accept the M5 button head set screws.

For the rear panel, I used M5 bonded fixings.  I marked the rear carpet to ensure everything was alinged - mainly the stitching between the tunnel cover and the rear panel.  I initially used CT-1 to bond the fixings on, but later on I used fibreglass P40 instead since one of them kept coming loose when I tightened the nut.

4x Holes were drilled into the boot and 1 into each rear wheel arch to keep the panel in place.  The side bolts will also be used to hold my door rubber finisher in place.

Front Vent Mesh

The front vents need mesh fitted to close up the holes.  I kept a hold of the fibreglass pieces that were cut off when originally opened so those can be used for a template for cutting the stainless mesh.

I moulded the mesh around the piece then marked a uniform depth for cutting.  I used a few bits of PTFE as a spacer and a fine tipped marker to keep the same distance.  Once marked on the masking tape, I cut the excess with tin snips.  This was repeated for all 3 holes (Oil cooler area, 2x brake ducts)

The mesh was then stuck onto to the bodyshell using some black CT-1.  I tied some thin string through the mesh and pulled it forwards to keep some tension until the CT-1 cured.