I made an aluminium cover for the N/S of the engine / gearbox to cover the flywheel. Just used a folded piece of aluminium and cut / filed it to shape. It is fastened to the block using a M6 set screw and spring washer / washer.
GD427 MK IV
One of my first drives out - 8th September 2025 (St Ninian's Isle - Shetland)
Wednesday, 13 July 2016
Thursday, 7 July 2016
Gearbox Bellhousing Openings
The bellhousing between the engine and gearbox has a few openings in it. This must be a somewhat universal bellhousing, since there are openings for a mechanical clutch fork on both sides. I can also see the flywheel on the N/S. I am waiting for a starter to come, so I am not sure if there is a gap on the O/S. Covers need to be put in place to prevent stones and debris coming in contact with the flywheel and clutch.
I am going to use aluminium to make up covers. I have made up one so far, and have fixed it to the gearbox by drilling and tapping out for M4 button head screws. I used a hoover to keep down on swarf. I have started with the easy one, and the others will require a little more sculpting..
I am going to use aluminium to make up covers. I have made up one so far, and have fixed it to the gearbox by drilling and tapping out for M4 button head screws. I used a hoover to keep down on swarf. I have started with the easy one, and the others will require a little more sculpting..
Radiator Cooling Fan
I have fitted the cooling fan to the aluminium radiator using the supplied stainless steel brackets. This involved carefully drilling small holes into the aluminium frame and I used M4 stainless button head screws and nylock nuts. The fan is a single 16" which I was told by GD that this had more flow than the twin fan option.
I am not 100% sure of the direction of flow yet, I will only find out when I connect in the wiring loom.
I will mount the radiator to the chassis once the heater pipework has been fitted to give me some room. I am waiting on parts coming from GD, and I am going to attempt to make up my own heater pipes using stainless tubing and silicone hoses. I will keep you posted.
I am not 100% sure of the direction of flow yet, I will only find out when I connect in the wiring loom.
I will mount the radiator to the chassis once the heater pipework has been fitted to give me some room. I am waiting on parts coming from GD, and I am going to attempt to make up my own heater pipes using stainless tubing and silicone hoses. I will keep you posted.
Front Suspension
After I set the bump steer, I re-fitted the front shock absorbers and loosely bolted them up in position. I still have to fully tighten the track rod ends. I packed them with washers just to save the nylock nuts just in case I had to take them off again while checking the front toe.
Bump Steer
I have had a few weeks holiday in Cornwall and so have had little progress on the GD. Also with the good weather I have been working out in the garden doing all the things that need doing.
To set the steering rack, I bought a Longacre Bump Steer gauge. I managed to get it set up even with my chassis up on trestles and it seemed to work pretty well. I managed to tweak the height of the rack to minimise the amount of bump steer. This will have to be re-done once the car is complete so it has been left in the ball park. I have attached a graph which interestingly shows how much the bump steer moves. Each line is a difference of 2mm height. I have left it where the line is closest to the horizontal.
To set the steering rack, I bought a Longacre Bump Steer gauge. I managed to get it set up even with my chassis up on trestles and it seemed to work pretty well. I managed to tweak the height of the rack to minimise the amount of bump steer. This will have to be re-done once the car is complete so it has been left in the ball park. I have attached a graph which interestingly shows how much the bump steer moves. Each line is a difference of 2mm height. I have left it where the line is closest to the horizontal.
Thursday, 26 May 2016
Rear Brakes
I fitted the rear brake pads and connected up the handbrake cable. I also replaced the bleed nipples with stainless ones.
I need to shorten the handbrake cable, but unless I can get a measurement from GD, then I will have to wait until I fit the body and handbrake lever. This is due to the fact that I don't know the "zero" position of the lever mechanism. I will contact Andy and see how they work it out... I also swapped around my p-clip mount on the diff, since it clashed with the O/S cable.
I need to shorten the handbrake cable, but unless I can get a measurement from GD, then I will have to wait until I fit the body and handbrake lever. This is due to the fact that I don't know the "zero" position of the lever mechanism. I will contact Andy and see how they work it out... I also swapped around my p-clip mount on the diff, since it clashed with the O/S cable.
Wednesday, 25 May 2016
Front Brake Calliper Mounting Blocks
I contacted GD regarding fitment of the front brake calliper mounting blocks and Andy confirmed that the bolt holes go toward the centre of the car. This will of course be confirmed once I buy and try to fit the AP callipers. Quite an easy job to change them afterwards anyway.
I have been looking at getting ready for setting the bump steer, so I have managed to get the front hubs aligned and I am just awaiting for my bump steer gauge to arrive. I decided just to order one, since I thought I would use it a few times anyway and it would save me a lot of time trying to find lasers and mirrors etc.
I have also requested a quote from Andy at GD for the coolant hoses for the LS engine including the header tank. I am toying on the idea of making my own 18mm stainless lines...
Watch this space......
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
















