Door Finishers

I wasn't too happy with the fitment of the supplied door finishers.  The front ones appeared to hit the door hinge when the door closed, and the rear ones....  I don't really know how they were supposed to fit.

I used some light gauge galvinsed steel I had to create a template for new rear finishers.  This was then used to create pieces in stainless steel.  After a bit of fettling I polished the newly created finishers.  I filled the small gap underneath with some hard foam I had from a flight case.  These are bolted through into the wheel arch using the bolt bonded to the leather rear panel.

For the front finishers, I marked where the hinges moved and transferred this to the supplied finisher.  I cut out a section - this was to ensure no stress was passed onto the mounting screws.  These were then screwed in and the door is finished!

More Leather

After the carpets had all been glued, it was time to fasten in the leather panels.  I looked at various methods used by others, but I prefer a fully hidden approach.  

The tunnel cover is held pretty good under the power steering frame at the front.  In addition to this, I drilled additional holes in the stainless gear lever ring to allow more fixings to be used (6 instead of the standard 3).  I then recessed the carpet and fixed double sided velcro at the rear to help stop the panel from sliding side to side.

The stainless ring was set on top of the leather panel in position and the holes were marked through to the leather.  I used a hole punch to create a hole in the leather and I drilled out the fibreglass.  For the bodyshell, I drilled oversized holes and inserted rivnuts to accept the M5 button head set screws.

For the rear panel, I used M5 bonded fixings.  I marked the rear carpet to ensure everything was alinged - mainly the stitching between the tunnel cover and the rear panel.  I initially used CT-1 to bond the fixings on, but later on I used fibreglass P40 instead since one of them kept coming loose when I tightened the nut.

4x Holes were drilled into the boot and 1 into each rear wheel arch to keep the panel in place.  The side bolts will also be used to hold my door rubber finisher in place.

Front Vent Mesh

The front vents need mesh fitted to close up the holes.  I kept a hold of the fibreglass pieces that were cut off when originally opened so those can be used for a template for cutting the stainless mesh.

I moulded the mesh around the piece then marked a uniform depth for cutting.  I used a few bits of PTFE as a spacer and a fine tipped marker to keep the same distance.  Once marked on the masking tape, I cut the excess with tin snips.  This was repeated for all 3 holes (Oil cooler area, 2x brake ducts)

The mesh was then stuck onto to the bodyshell using some black CT-1.  I tied some thin string through the mesh and pulled it forwards to keep some tension until the CT-1 cured.

Engine Bay Battery Connectors

I always had an idea of using an Anderson connector inside the engine bay to allow access to the battery for jump starting / charging purposes.

After playing around with the connectors, and the limited space around where I was hoping to install it, I thought I would abandon that idea since I felt that my knuckles would probably get badly damaged. And also if I didn't have an Anderson connector adaptor with me, somebody with standard jump leads wouldn't be able to help.

I bought some 250A heavy duty remote battery charging posts.  For the positive, I tucked the connector up and under as far as I could to keep accessible, above the cooling water pipes and inside the battery compartment.  A cable was then run to the battery terminal.

For the negative side, I cut down the post, turned it down in the lathe, drilled a hole through the centre and bolted it to the chassis using a coutersunk set screw.  This bolts onto the chassis where the main negative battery cable connects to the chassis.

Altogether a more funtional use of connection in case it is ever needed.

Exhausting

I noticed while running the car, I would get some condensation dripping under the rear silencer.  On closer inspection I could see a couple of small pin holes in the weld.  I decided to remove the silencers and have them TIG welded by a friend.

I also realised that she didn't sound too even when running.  I tried removing plug leads to try to work out if it was a misfire, I tried to use a laser temperature gun to check each exhaust port - this doesn't work too well since the manifold is shiny stainless.  I then realised the catalytic convertor on the passenger side was extremely hot!

I plugged in my tablet to the CANEMS ECU and sure enough the O2 sensor was not reading on the near side.  After checking around in the dashboard wiring, one of the small wires had broken off from the connector.  A replacement of connector pin fixed the issue and she was back running evenly.  Thankfully not a faulty sensor!

Left hand guage showing bad value

Broken wire shown by badly drawn arrow

Back to normal

Door Cards

Now that the side carpets are in including the edging strip, the door cards can now be aligned and fitted.

The door card has already has mounting holes punched through the hardboard backing so it is a case of transferring these hole positions (actually the position of the mouting clip) onto the fibregalss door.

I started by drawing around the leather covered door card on cardboard and marked each hole position.  Using the template I could place the door into the opening and align it to the best position - the door card and the opening are not 100% of a match. 

By covering the fibreglass in masking tape, it was easy to mark through the holes on my template so they are in the exact position.

Holes were then drilled, the clips placed into the door card, and pressed onto the door.  Looks good!

More Carpets & Handbrake Lever

After I got the fibreglass cut, and the rear carpet piping cut off, I was able to fit and glue the rear carpet, and both side carpets.  I have also fitted the edging around the door opening.  The door opening and the carpet sewing don't line up 100%, so I managed to manipulate what I could to get it as looking as good as I could.

The footwell carpets could then be laid in and holes cut in them for the safety harness eye bolts to pass through them.

I bolted in the handbrake bracket complete with handbrake lever.  This was spaced off slightly using washers on the top holes so there is room for your knuckles between the side of the car.

I put on the leather cover and also the stainless finisher around the base which neatens it up.

The leather cover will be rolled back and tied so that the hand grip is revealed.  I stuck the front footwell carpets down with some double sided velcro, so we will see how it manages to hold on through time, and if I ever need to remove them.