Bracing

After fitting the cooling and heater pipes, I decided to fit the 2 front cross braces.  These just needed a few taps to fit, and then bolted up using the high tensile cap head bolts.

A fairly straight forward job!

Heating & Cooling System

I managed to find some time to work on the car during my time off which has moved on quite a bit.  The weather has been excellent for October, and a lot of outside jobs have also been done which took priority.

I re-fitted the radiator which I had previously fitted the fan brackets and fan.  I cut some rubber hose for the top mount.

After initially receiving the incorrect radiator tank (I have a newer LS water pump), I have finally manged to fit it to the upper cross brace.  I set the tank on the cross brace and lined it up to the water pump using the 38mm to 32mm silicon hose.  I then marked and drilled the underside of the brace and tapped the hole to M6 and bolted it up.

I temporarily installed the air inlet pipe to be able to align the windscreen washer tank.  I checked the overhang of the bodyshell to ensure that the tank wouldn't foul, and decided that I would make the centres of the caps at even distances from the air inlet.

I ordered the stainless pack from GD for the heater matrix and also for the lower radiator hose.  The 2 x 16mm pipes have brackets pre-welded onto them for fitment on the upper cross brace.  I had to remove some of the tank brackets to permit fitment, and I used M5 button heads to fix it.

 I also used the CNC machined thermostat housing supplied by GD which I finally bolted up in the orientation that seemed to fit best.

I need to order more stainless clamps to finally fit the hoses and finally bolt in the upper cross brace.  I still require to order some 16mm hose for the heater, and figure out the final position of the heater matrix.

Exhausting!

I managed to source some help in dry fitting the exhaust to ensure correct alignment.  This took a bit of maneuvering but I think it is now in a position that it is ready for final sealing and clamping.  I bought some stainless clamps (Similar to Mikalor) which will keep the exhaust system rust free and less likely to hit the ground when driving.

I have marked each joint with permanent marker so that I can disassemble, apply sealer, and reassemble in the correct location.

I have started making the rear rubber mount, and just need to make the final 3 holes to bolt it to the exhaust hanger.

Once I have finally fitted the exhaust, I plan to lower the chassis to the ground onto some build wheels!

Nuts, Bolts & Washers

With many things to do around the house, and painting windows etc. the car progress has suffered a bit.  I am still scouring the web regarding power steering requirements and some more wiring required.

In the meantime, I finally bought some wall organisers for holding all the A4 stainless set screws, nuts, washers that I had been keeping in plastic compartment boxes.  I bought 3 different types - a 60 drawer, 48 drawer and a 24 drawer.  There is room for one more organiser which I will buy later once I know what size will be the best.

Dipstick!

Since my LS7 has been converted to a wet sump system, I require a dipstick.  The engine was built using a batwing sump, and the block had been pre-drilled for the dipstick tube.

After searching for a while on the internet, I found the following information from here.

The Dipstick Tube part number should be 12562360 & the Dipstick 12562468.

However, these part numbers have been discontinued and after speaking with Pace Performance, I deduced that the part numbers that I require are:

Dipstick Tube:    12563817
Dipstick:             12574889

I ordered them from the US and promptly fitted them.  I'll have to see how it lines up once the rocker covers are in place, but I think it is not too far off.  I may get a new handle to get rid of the bright yellow one!

Also, once I drain the current level of oil out (added just for preservation), I will fill the sump with the required amount (6.5 qts.) and check the level on the dipstick to confirm this is indeed the correct one!

I have notched a little piece out of the heat shield, but I will remove approx 5mm more before adding some edging strip to clean up the install.

Starter Heat Shield

Since fitting the starter and the exhaust manifold, it was plain to see that the starter requirs a heat shield of some sorts.  There is only 17mm of clearance between the two.

I made a cardboard template out of a Shreddies box and then fabricated a heat shield out of 2 pieces of perforated stainless steel sheet sandwiching some fibreglass tape.  This will hopefully help the starter from getting too hot.

I have bought a dipstick so I will have to cut out a section to allow clearance once I fit it.

 

Exhaust Dry Fit

Apologies for not posting sooner, things have been busy with outside work and I haven't had much time in the garage.

I dry assembled the exhaust to see how it fits and also to mark where the central mounting bobbin requires to be drilled to the gearbox mount.  I pushed all the components together and it seems to fit!  I marked the bobbin and drilled the mount in situ.  I may have to rotate the cats slightly to make a bit more clearance from the chassis.  I will do this just before applying sealer and the stainless clamps.  I also need to drill the rear rubber mount to fix to the chassis.