What my car should look like when finished - Stoneleigh 2015

Thursday, 21 June 2018

Rear Lights

I took time to fit the reverse light and fog light using the GD supplied stainless stand-offs.  At this moment in time, I am thinking to keep these on permanently since I know some people prefer them off.  I'll see what happens.

The body was drilled and long stainless set screws were used to mount the lights to the car.

I then finished off the wiring for all the rear lights using 5-way super seal connectors.

Saturday, 2 June 2018

Shetland Classic Motor Show 2018

Since my car was looking so good, although not quite finished, I decided to put her to the local car show in Lerwick - Shetland Classic Motor Show.  I put her in the trailer, strapped her down and headed to the show.  I received very positive feedback from those I spoke to which is a reflection of GD's build quality.  Some photos of the very successful show can be found on Gordon Siegel's Facebook page here.

The car show is every 2 years and so hope to drive her there next time!

Thursday, 31 May 2018

First Time Outside!

My tyres arrived - Michelin Pilot Super Sport 245/40/18 (Front) & 275/40/18 (Rear).  Chris came to the garage with his mobile unit, and fitted them for me.  Since it was a fine night, we rolled her out of the garage for her first true appearance.  She looks good!

Saturday, 26 May 2018


GD supply AP Racing front discs and callipers as an upgrade.  They are 330mm x 28mm grooved discs and 4-pot aluminium callipers.  I assembled the disc to the bell using the bolt kit and fitted the callipers to the supplied aluminium blocks.  The stainless flexible hoses were also connected and fitted to the wishbones using stainless P-Clips.

Saturday, 12 May 2018

Windscreen Vents

GD supply fishtail windscreen vents which I found were quite big and used up a lot of space in behind the dash.  I decided to manufacture my own to minimise space taken up.

I made a cardboard template and passed this to a friend who converted it into stainless steel.  By using this design means the hoses are well out of the way and allows plenty of room for the wiring and possible glovebox.  I polished the stainless escutcheons before bolting them to these vents using polished button head set screws.

Friday, 4 May 2018

Oil Catch Cans

I have been thinking about engine breathers and what to do with them.  I believe sometimes the N/S rear one is just blocked off, but I felt I wanted something different.  Scouring the internet and forums, I found some diagrams on LStech forums which I thought looked good and made sense.  There is a clean side and a dirty side, and people use catch cans to filter the vent to make sure oil doesn't pass back in through the intake.

I looked and bought 2x Racetronix catch cans which have a sight glass in them so you can see if / when they fill up.  I bought a double bracket too, but still undecided exactly where to mount them.

I bought hose and connections to suit and will update the blog once installed.

Monday, 16 April 2018

Throttle Pedal Wiring

Because the electronic throttle unit is on the opposite side of the bulkhead in the drivers footwell, I needed a way to get the cable and plug through without leaving a big hole.

I decided to design a piece that would allow this.  Basically I worked out what minimum size of hole I needed for the plug and then worked from there.  The cable itself, within the flexible conduit, could fit through a standard 20mm grommet.  This meant I could create a piece from aluminium to cover the hole up once the connector had passed through.  Again, I used Solidworks to design and a local company Ocean Kinetics to mill it for me.  I polished it on the polisher before passing the wire through it and fitting to the bulkhead with M5 button head set screws.  I had to dis-assemble the connector to get it through.

Wednesday, 14 March 2018

Heater Pipes - Installed

I fitted the GD supplied stainless heater pipes which are fitted to the chassis inside the engine bay.  This allowed me to fit the 90 degree heater hoses to link my stainless tubes to the heater matrix.  I used a stainless steel joiner along with stainless jubilee clips (not shown on photo) to join the hoses.

Tuesday, 13 March 2018

Car Electrics

I researched a bit on types of batteries since I wanted to get a battery as big and powerful as possible.  I decided to go for an Optima Red-Top battery which is a sealed AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) type.  This is designed as an ultimate starting battery which delivers "a strong burst of ignition power".  Measuring the battery meant that I cut a small bit out of the stainless battery tray to ensure it was going to fit.  I went for the RTU 4.2 version.  My plan is to use the front connections as a charging point linked to an Anderson connector in the engine bay.

I also have decided to fit a battery brain which cuts off the battery if you accidentally leave anything switched on.  This allows you still to be able to start the car once you switch it back on again.  It can also be used as an anti-theft device since it comes with coded remotes to switch it on and off.

I mounted this in the front passenger wheel well and made off the ends of all the cables once cut to length.  The photos don't show it, but I have fitted the battery clamp and connected the main wire to the starter too.

Brake & Clutch Fluid Reservoirs

I decided to use 3x single reservoirs for the brake & clutch fluid.  I also decided that I wanted to run the flexible brakes hoses inside the bulkhead so that they weren't in the engine bay crossing the steering column.

The supplied brackets for the reservoirs were just plated steel so the first thing to do was create a new 1-piece stainless steel bracket that held all 3 reservoirs.  I measured them and then drew up a plan using Solidworks.  The reservoirs I used have a float with test switch built in, which is an IVA requirement (along with the stickers).  They came with just a hose connection, but since I wanted to use flexible hoses, I removed the connection, drilled and fitted aluminium -AN4 fittings with o rings which could then fit to bulkhead connectors to go to the master cylinders.

Where the front, rear and clutch fittings come up to in the engine bay, I marked where holes should go for 90 degree end flexible hoses.  I could then determine if it was all going to fit.

Once the bracket was made, I assembled the 3 reservoirs along with 90 degree fittings.  This then allowed me to work out where on the bulkhead these could be mounted.  I used masking tape and drew on a grid on the bulkhead and fitted the bracket with double sided tape.  This allowed me to stick the bracket to the bulkhead and close the bonnet.  From the front wheel well, I could look in with a torch and look at the marked grid to see where it could be moved.

Because of the fuel pressure regulator, and bonnet height it doesn't fit perfectly as desired.  I had to offset one of the holes in the bulkhead coming from the high pressure side of the master cylinder.

I then connected up the fluid level switch wires and should now just require the stickers.

Sunday, 11 March 2018

Cylinder Head Steam Vents - Update

You may remember when I was working with the cylinder head steam vents.  I managed to install the vent pipework, however I had to modify the inlet to the expansion tank.  The braided hose couldn't expand enough to fit onto the GD supplied tank, so I had to weld on a short 6mm stainless tube to allow the hose to fit.  The photos below shows the unmodified fitment and the route of the hose.

The hose was routed under the fuel injector wires and so is a very neat install.

Saturday, 24 February 2018

Wheels have Arrived!

My new Image Wheels arrived, so I obviously tried one on the car to see how it will look.  I went for CHB Image Wheels with satin black centres with nut covers and spinners.  I think they look better on than off!  Can't wait to get tyres fitted.

For tyres, GD recommend Michelin Pilot Super Sports for road use.  I initially was thinking to fit track day tyres, however after speaking with a few people, these tyres need to run at a high temperature to operate and to to this you need to drive the car hard.  For normal driving on public roads, you won't be able to get the tyres up to temperature.  The Michelin tyres get very good reviews online, and I have spoken to a few people who have them and recommend them.  I just need to buy some now.....  245/40/18 on the front, and 275/40/18 on the rear.

Fuel Supply - Complete

I fitted a couple of stainless P-Clips to the supply and return hoses that fit to the bulkhead fittings in the boot to satisfy the requirements of the IVA.

I was concerned about the smell of fuel in the boot of the car, along with the garage so I did some research online and came up with the following: 

  • Standard rubber fuel hoses won't leak fuel, however the fumes will pass through them.  For this reason, PTFE lined hoses need to be used to prevent this.  I used Goodridge 811 Series PTFE hose. 
  • The fuel tank requires to be vented for the filling and emptying of the tank in normal operation.  This basically means that the fuel tank is open to the atmosphere and therefore vents into your garage when the vehicle is at rest.  Normal production cars have systems that feed the fuel tank vents back into the engine through an emissions control system.  Since this is far too complicated to do, I chose a different method.
  • I found a two way valve from Newton Equipment Ltd (TPV8) that states that the valve remains closed when the engine is switched off, therefore preventing fuel smells in the garage.  The valve allows the fuel tank to breath when both filling and emptying and can be mounted in any orientation.  Please find a link to the spec sheet here.
I mounted the Newton valve inside the N/S rear footwell as high up as it could be mounted.  Hopefully this will clear the tyre!  This involved drilling a hole through from the boot and using some P-Clips to mount the valve.  On the outlet of the valve I fitted a standard fuel filter just more as a dirt filter to prevent dirt being sucked into the tank.  I used stainless jubilee clips with hose end covers.  I sealed the hose exit using some sealant to prevent water ingress.

Before fitting the tank and making up the last of the fuel hoses from the pumps, I covered the tank and boot in Silent Coat sound deadening pads.  These make a huge difference to the resonance of the fibreglass and the stainless fuel tank.  I really went to town with it, maybe a bit too much, but I didn't want to have steps in the carpet once it was laid.  I did the boot floor, wheel arches, rear bulkhead, main seating area, engine bulkhead and under the dashboard.  It has added a good bit of weight!

Once the fuel tank was in position, I cut the fuel pump wires to length and crimped the ends.  This will all require clipping into place, but I will wait until I finalise the rest of the boot lights.

Thursday, 11 January 2018

Fuel Supply

With the roll hoops fitted, I moved onto the fitment of the fuel tank connections.  I placed the fuel tank in the boot and planned what fuel hose should go where to minimise protrusions.

I have also decided to put valves in line with the supply and return since it seemed like a good idea at the time...

I loosely put together the y-piece, the valve and the elbow to see where the bulkhead fittings could be mounted.  This was slightly tricky due to the rear chassis bracing that runs up past the gap between the fuel tank and body.

I used masking tape to help see my drill points and drilled through for the -10AN bulkhead fitting for the supply, and the -8AN 90° fitting for the return.  This meant that I could now cut the fuel hose to the correct length and fit the hose ends.

Once cut to the correct length, the -10 supply hose was removed from the fuel filter to fit the hose end on the bench which was easier than doing it in situ.  The return line had to be done in situ, however the -8 fittings are easier to work with than the -10 due to the smaller size.

Once this was all dry fitted, I applied some sealant around the bulkhead fittings to help hold them in place.  I still need to fit a p-clip to each of the hoses.  Next job will be to make up all the short lengths of hose from the top of the tank to the bulkhead fittings.

There isn't a lot of room.....

Roll Hoops Fitment

With the body in position, I decided it would be good to get the roll hoops fitted.  This is one of the jobs that seem a bit daunting, since you have to drill large holes in the cars body!

I levelled up the chassis as best I could, by jacking the chassis up and placing it on axle stands with packers on top - my garage floor is far from level!

This took some time to get the chassis anywhere near level, but I wanted it to be right.

From underneath, with the rear wheels off, I could reach to drill up through the innermost mount holes with a right angled drill.  I made a bushing to fit inside the 12.5mm hole in the chassis which allowed my 6mm drill bit to be central.  Once these 2 holes were made, I placed some masking tape across the width of the upper boot floor and drew on a straight line between the 2.  I then used my cardboard template to mark the other 4 holes that were required.

Once I was happy with the position, I drilled the 6 holes in the upper boot floor - 4 @ 60mm, and 2 @ 50mm to allow plenty of clearance for the base of the roll hoops.  These lined up well with no problems. 

Firstly I made a measurement device so that I could detect the hole centre, and how far off I was.  I used a nylon M10 top hap washer, slightly padded out with a rotation of tape (taking care to ensure the tape ends lined up) and an AutoCad created 1mm Grid with centre line.  This was stuck to the washer with double sided tape.  Next the awkward bit......

I placed masking tape onto the underside of the rear bodyshell, so that I could project upwards a plumb bob mark.  This involved climbing in the boot, twisting, laying on my side / back / front to try to see what the plumb bob was doing.  I held the plumb bob just above the marker and using the thumb nail of one hand, held the string to the underside of the bodyshell and marked with the other hand the central point.  I did this for all 6 holes, and then double checked them.

They all seemed not too far away.....

I then drilled a 2mm hole up through the bodyshell at each mark to enable the plumb bob string to pass through to get a real reading.....

There was only 1 hole that was around 3mm out!  I drilled a new hole just to the side, and then it was spot on.

Now came the twitchy bit.  Rather than go for the 60mm holes and 50mm holes which would give the required 5mm gap all around the roll hoops, I went for 50mm for the front holes and 38mm for the rear (the exact diameter of the roll hoops).  I drilled the 50mm holes first and opened them up very slightly with a drum sander so the legs could just go through.  I tried the first hoop in and it fitted!

I then drilled the hole for the rear leg (38mm) which again, after being opened up a little, fitted nicely.  Or so I thought.....

After I had fitted both roll hoops, I tried to tighten them down.  I realised that they wanted to pull forward slightly.  I had to remove them and elongate the holes towards the front of the car a few times until the hoops fitted.  This possibly means that the chassis wasn't perfectly level prior to the drilling!

Not to worry, once the required 5mm gap was drawn all around the bars, the biggest gap I had was 6mm.  Well within tolerance of the large rubber grommet that gets fitted along with the aluminium cover.  I still have to fill the hoops with expanding foam to help deaden the noise, and I probably won't finally fit the hoops until the boot carpet has been fitted.

All in all a job well done that was probably the job that I feared the most!