I cut out for the footwell extension a while back, but never got around to fitting rivnuts to the cover, so I marked and drilled for 6x M6 rivnuts. 5 of these come through into the footwell, where 1 goes into the master cylinder compartment. This was temporarily fitted, and will be finally fitted once the body shell has been put on.
Also, taking some pointers from Mark Turnbull's blog and Dale's blog, I decided to open out the footwell adjacent to the accelerator pedal. I may need to slightly modify this once the accelerator is fully in place, however I copied what Dale had done here. I will wait for the accelerator is in place and checked before applying glass fibre matting to the area.
Please Note: This Modification IS NOT RECOMMENDED by the factory and I have carried this out at my own risk.
GD427 MK IV
One of my first drives out - 8th September 2025 (St Ninian's Isle - Shetland)
Showing posts with label Pedal Box. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pedal Box. Show all posts
Thursday, 4 May 2017
Pedal Box
I assembled the pedal box and mounted it to the bulkhead.
Using the engine bay ledge underside as a reference, the pedal box was mounted around 8-10mm lower that this line as Dale Cordingley did since he is roughly my size and confirms he is happy with his pedals.
I made up a cardboard template matching the alloy housing, and transferred the holes to the bulkhead before drilling with a holesaw and drill. The pedal box was positioned in such a way that the accelerator pedal could still be removed while the clutch and brake pedal remained in place.
I then drilled and tapped holes for the brake light switch mount and also for a clutch switch in case I ever need it (Cruise Control?) I will get another bracket and switch from GD just in case.
Using the engine bay ledge underside as a reference, the pedal box was mounted around 8-10mm lower that this line as Dale Cordingley did since he is roughly my size and confirms he is happy with his pedals.
I made up a cardboard template matching the alloy housing, and transferred the holes to the bulkhead before drilling with a holesaw and drill. The pedal box was positioned in such a way that the accelerator pedal could still be removed while the clutch and brake pedal remained in place.
I then drilled and tapped holes for the brake light switch mount and also for a clutch switch in case I ever need it (Cruise Control?) I will get another bracket and switch from GD just in case.
I mounted the brake and clutch pedals with the bias bar and master cylinders. I calculated that I require a 10mm spacer under the brake cylinders to prevent cutting any threads off the push rods and to maintain a slight free play of the pedal on the housing. For the clutch pedal, I require much more, however I decided to cut down the push rod by 20mm to enable a 10mm spacer to be fitted also. I have drawn up a spacer using Solidworks and a local machining company will machine some spacers for me from 10mm aluminium. I will post photos once finally assembled.
For the accelerator pedal, the GD and LS engines use a GM electronic pedal which requires a link rod to go through the bulkhead, or a re-designing of the pedal box housing to accommodate the GM pedal directly. I decided to go down the link rod route.
Firstly I cut down the GM pedal so that it can fit inside the footwell compartment above the master cylinders. I then drilled a 6mm hole to allow a rod end to be fitted. Using some blogs for information, I copied Dale's blog for a distance of 43mm down from the top of the GD pedal to gain around 100mm of travel. A 6mm hole was drilled through the GD pedal to allow a rod end to be fitted.
The tricky part was to drill a hole through the bulkhead in the correct location to allow smooth operation of the GD and GM pedals with the link rod. I used 220mm long stainless M6 threaded rod to link the two pedals with the supplied female rod ends. Once the pedal box is fully fitted, I will confirm the pedal travel and may have to adjust as required...
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