I sent off my paperwork to the DVLA on the 31st of July 2025. There are only 3 people who work in the kits and rebuilds section and with various bank holidays and personal holidays, I got my paperwork through on the 5th of September 2025. I got my insurance upgraded for road use and since the weather was amazingly good I set off for a few drives.
Hopefully will get a few more days before winter sets in!
After getting my old faithful Land Rover Discovery serviced, and my Ifor Williams Transporta trailer brakes checked I was ready for the long journey. My friend Mervyn agreed to come with me for moral support, and also to help in case we broke down!
Working through the GD checklist for the IVA test, I double checked all points to make sure they were covered. I sent photos to Andy at GD to make sure he didn't see anything obvious before I sent in my IVA application. This didn't flag up anything so the application was submitted!
I managed to book in a slot at Specialist Technical Solutions rolling road up here in Shetland while liaising with Dave at Canems to ensure the car was going to run as good as she could.
Ray got to work strapping the car down and started the tune after a good chat with Dave regarding the software and tune.
My engine isn't a standard LS7, it has had a camshaft and other various internal items and if you remember clocked 620bhp on the engine dyno. I was expecting less power through the drivetrain and with the lesser quality of fuel up here (Far from super unleaded) so we put it to the test.
A good few runs were done and the basic tuning was put in place. There was however a slight misfire at higher revs. After speaking with Dave he confirmed that it appears when I got my engine it had been supplied with aftermarket coil packs and these could potentially be the route cause.
I ordered genuine GM ones from Rockauto.com along with spark plugs and leads.
For the IVA prep, I notice that you need to cover the safety harness buckles (The clips that clip onto the rool hoops). I was originally thinking to cover them with rubber edging, but then I watched Maxwell Millz Youtube video detailing Vikash's build (Recommend watchinng it):
I noticed he had small covers over the top of his ones. I thought I could perhaps make ones to suit, but once I had searched Google, I found ones for sale at KitCarDirect. I thought at least this will save me some time.
I promptly ordered them. They don't take long to place over the eyebolt, and clip in the harness.
Job Done!
Now that the car is pretty much complete and ready for testing, I thought I had better calibrate my Smiths Speedometer.
I bought the Caerbont Automotive Instruments Smiths Electronic Speedo (200mph anti-clockwise).
To be able to calibrate the speedo, you need to follow the instructions very carefully. (Online Download)
The first piece of information requried is the rolling circumference of the rear tyre. I stuck on a piece of masking tape onto the tyre and drew on a straight line. I then placed masking tape on the floor with a similar straight line. From the starting point of both lines touching, I rolled the tyre across the floor and when it went full circle, you guessed it, I placed another piece of masking tape down with another line. Measured between the lines I got a measurement of 2087mm. This is for the 275/40 R18 Michelin Pilot Super Sports.
Since my speedo is in MPH, the instructions request "Wheel revs per mile = 63360 divided by the distance travelled in inches".
To convert from mm to inches you need to divide 2087 by 25.4. This gives the answer in inches (82.16535433)
Therefore the Wheel revs per mile for my car is 63360 / 82.16535433 = 771.1279348 (give or take a few decimal points!)
We can now figure out the calibration number with the following calculation "Calibration number = (wheel revs per mile/km) x (diff ratio) x (number of magnets or bolts)"
The diff ratio for my Dana Spicer Hydratrak is 3.07:1
The VSS for the T56 Magnum has 17 pulses per revolution (That's what most people seem to confirm on the online forums!)
So, finally, the Calibration number sum of the speedo is:
771.1279348 x 3.07 x 17 = 40245.16692
The instructions state "the calibration number you have calculated should be rounded up to the nearest whole number" so my final Calibration Number is 40246.
To enter this data into the speedo itself, as per the instructions:
"The calibration mode is selected by switching on the ignition while simultaneously pressing the trip reset button. The pointer will travel to full scale and return to zero. If the button is released before the pointer returns to zero, the manual setting procedure will be selected and the LCD (ODO.) will read ‘SET PPU’. If the button is released after the pointer returns to zero the ‘drive to set’ mode is selected and the LCD will show ‘DTS PPU.’ At this point, pressing the reset button momentarily will toggle between ‘SET PPU’ and DTS PPU’.
Manually Inputting The PPU Number
Set the LCD to display ‘SET PPU’ as described above. Press the reset button for 2-3 seconds, the LCD will show the calibration number currently set. Each digit within the calibration number will flash in turn for approximately 2 seconds. When a digit is flashing, each depression of the reset button will increment the digit by one. Once the last (right-most) digit has been set/reset, the whole number will flash. Press the reset button and the LCD will display ‘DONE.’ After 3 seconds the LCD will display ‘SET PPU,’ the setting is now complete. Switch off the ignition."
It is fairly easy to setup once you know all your figures - as long as you remember to press the reset button when all the digit flashes to ensure the number you have put in is stored... When I double checked that I had put the correct number in, I found that the default number "008380" was still there. I re-did it and remembered to press the reset button when all digits were flashing. I have since re-checked, and my number has been stored. I will test it properly once on the road compared against the sat nav.
I wasn't sure how to deal with the windscreen that protrudes down into the footwells. Since I have power steering, this differs from the standard GD frame which will differ from the usual covers that I think they can provide. I will just make ones.
Using card, I created templates so that these could be made out of stainless steel. My friend created these from my template - only a small bit of welding required. The edges are nicely rounded.
I prepped them and sparayed them semi-gloss black, along with the heads of the bolts. The bolt that holds them on is the lower Windscreen bolt. I felt that was the neatest way to fasten them on. Fairly finishes off the footwells.
